I leveled the table to keep all the rubber from running to one side, then made a rotating table on top of the table to make it easier to get to all parts of the mold.
Etched metal plates were fitted together to make the original. It was mounted on a sheet of foam for the desired thickness, and a fence built around it.
The rubber must be vacuumed to remove air introduced when stirring the base and catlyst together. Without vacuuming, you will get bubbles on the surface, which ruins the detail. This picture shows much of the air has been removed, the rubber has risen to its maxium height, and is on its way down.
I built a polyethelene fence around the original, and taped the edges to prevent leaks. This picture shows part of the first coat of rubber.
The original is coated with rubber. Note the protruding raised letters. Rubber color variations are caused by different amounts of pigment in different batches of catlyst.
Here is the finished rubber. No letters are showing.
A plaster mothermold to holds the rubber in shape.
This is the finished mold. Look at the sharp detail and perfect surface! It has no air bubbles or other imperfections.
Bronze powder is brushed onto the surface in two directions to insure coverage. Excess is removed, or it will form a pocket and ruin surface detail.
This is not the typical cold-cast bronze process, where the powder is added to the resin.
The entire surface of the mold is covered with bronze powder.
Black resin is brushed over the powder in two directions. It has to be done thinly to eliminate imperfections.
The board is clamped to the back of the mold, and foam is poured into the holes. More clamps than are shown were used.
The back was leveled, and a section was removed to add a hanger. It was aligned and bolted to the cross piece, and foam added for strength.
Here is the finished product.
